Vinyl or galvanized corner bead is recommended.įrom there I covered the seams with Backerboard Seam Tape, but to be honest, I wish I would have used a wider fiberglass mesh. I then installed some corner bead to the exterior corners. Due to the alkaline nature of the concrete board, standard screws can rust over time. When using concrete board be sure to use specific screws designed to work with concrete board, not standard drywall screws. Once the frame was up and secured, we installed concrete board to the front, sides and interior opening of the fireplace surround. The progress shot our contractor sent us of the cement boards (When working with steel studs you have to make sure to use fasteners that are designed for metal to properly connect the metal studs together.) We then attached the frame to existing studs in the wall where possible. The arch located at the top of the fireplace opening was made of a steel stud as well which had the side supports trimmed to allow the stud to be bent into a curve. To ensure the proper clearance of combustible material, we only used wood 2x4s on the outermost frame supports, with all remaining portions of the frame constructed with steel studs. Knowing I had a short deadline to work with, we worked with some friends who have a handyman business to help me with the frame. We started out by building a 2×4 frame that extended to the ceiling. Our entire surround is built out of non combustible cement products, brick and steel, except for the outermost studs of the frame. The key is to keep all combustible materials away from the fireplace opening. We came up with a design with a similar look that also worked with fire code! Below is the process, materials, and total cost! The inspiration for our fireplace by MagnoliaĪnna’s vision for the new look of our fireplace surround was heavily influenced by the look of classic Southwest and Spanish stucco fireplaces. So, to minimise the risk of plaster cracking, instead of recommending the stove in a newly rendered fireplace isn’t used for 1 week, we recommend the stove isn’t used for 4 weeks.We are hoping to break down the process of our fireplace design to answer any questions you may have if you want to give this a try in your own home! When looking into revamping a fireplace surround, it is really important to research, and make sure you check out both national fire code and local fire code before you begin! We consulted multiple fireplace/chimney companies in the area, and spoke with a member of our local fire department just to make sure we were on track. Lime takes longer to set through the process of carbonisation than the time sand and cement takes to dry out. There’s one thing to watch out for when choosing to have a fireplace rendered in Lime. – using Lime to render a fireplace takes no longer than using sand and cement It is usually required for any Listed building. – it is a traditional material free of any chemicals, particularly suitable for older buildings and new environmentally friendly buildings. – lime is a softer material than modern cement and plaster which means it will give rather than cracking Cotswold stone It sets through a process of carbonisation as it is exposed to Carbon Dioxide CO2 in the air) – any small cracks that appear as a building settles, typically get sealed up naturally as the lime mortar/plaster re-carbonates (Lime does not “dry out” in the way we’re used to with modern materials. – it breathes and lets moisture out so is particularly suitable for Victorian brick buildings and older Cotswold stone buildings which don’t have cavity walls or damp courses. Lime is a traditional building material with a number of advantages over modern materials: As part of our stove installation service and where we are “knocking out”, enlarging or building a fireplace, we can offer the option of having the fire opening rendered in Lime (to be precise that’s a base coat of a lime and hemp mix with a lime plaster finish coat).
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